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  • Handmade Soap

    Coffee Mint Kitchen Soap
    submitted by Susan Ryhanen

    If you have a question or comment about this recipe, please post it in the Comments Section below! Also, to discuss recipes and questions with others, use our Forum!!

    Susan Ryhanen of Creekside Soaps says this recipe is perfect to use int he kitchen to remove common cooking odors left by such things as garlic and fish. This is Susan''s recipe. For continuity at this website, we have added the instructions.

    Yield: approx. 10 4-ounce bars
    Prep Time: varies depending on experience; no less than 1-2 hours
    Price Category: 1
    Difficulty Level: 3
    Shelf Life: Indefinite

    Rating: star star star
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    Ingredients:
    5.2 ounces sodium hydroxide
    5 ounces cold distilled water
    2 teaspoons sugar
    2 teaspoons salt
    16 ounces palm kernel oil
    12 ounces olive oil
    6 ounces coconut oil
    1 ounce shea butter
    7 ounces strong brewed coffee
    2 tablespoons coffe grounds
    5 teaspoons peppermint essential oil

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    Blending Procedure:

    1. Assemble all equipment and ingredients materials and cover work area completely with newspaper. Combine the strong brewed coffee, coffee grounds and essential oil in a bowl and stir well. Set aside. Measure the cold water into a Pyrex glass measuring cup. Add the sugar and salt and stir to fully dissolve. Put on rubber gloves, face mask and safety goggles. Carefully measure the lye into the cold water. Immediately stir the solution with the end of a wooden or heavy-duty plastic spoon. Stir gently and continuously, and do not slosh the liquid. Slowly stir until the liquid begins to clear and the lye is completely dissolved. If some lye hardens and settles at the bottom of the glass, gently loosen it with the spoon and continue to stir until all lye is dissolved. The water will heat up considerably during this process so be sure to start with cold water. Be extra careful when handling the solution at all times, especially while it is hot. Additionally, avoid the unpleasant fumes that will be emitted during the mixing process. Your facemask should be sufficient to insulate you from the fumes, but you might want to mix the lye with water in the open air to be on the safe side. You may remove the facemask after a few minutes, as the fumes will subside. After the lye has dissolved, remove the spoon. Rinse the spoon under cold water and save it for clean up. Set aside the lye solution to cool.

    2. As long as you do not come into contact with lye or lye solution, you may remove your protective gear until Step 5. Measure the palm kernel oil, olive oil, coconut oil and shea butter. Those oils that are solid at room temperature (such as coconut oil, lard, shea butter, cocoa butter, etc.) will need to be liquefied. Measure the appropriate amount of each oil into your soap pot and place the pot over a low flame to warm and melt the solid oils. After the oils have liquefied, remove them from the heat source and stir gently to ensure they are thoroughly mixed. Set aside to cool.

    3. While you are waiting for the oils and lye solution to cool, you can prepare your molds. You can use almost anything plastic or wooden for a soap mold. You can use a shoe or envelope box, but a thick wooden box is best because it insulates better than a thin cardboard box. You can also use Rubbermaid or Tupperware containers, plastic drawer utensil holders, plastic candy molds, Solo cups and plastic molds designed especially for soap making. If you use a plastic mold, you need not grease or line the mold. If you use a wooden or cardboard mold, you will need to line it with plastic.

    4. I like to allow the temperature of both the oils and lye solution to reduce to between 90ºF and 100ºF before combining them to make soap. If the ingredients are too hot, you risk having to stir for an extra long time. If the ingredients are too cool, the process of saponification (the chemical term for making soap) may not occur. I rarely use a thermometer to check anymore as the temperatures have usually lowered to this point about 45 minutes after the lye is added to the water. If you decide to use a thermometer, remember to don your protective gear every time you check the temperature of the lye mixture.

    5. Once the temperatures are right, wearing your rubber gloves and eye goggles, you will add the lye solution to the fats. Whatever you are using for your soap pot, you will want to secure it so it will remain steady. Carefully pour a slow and steady stream of lye solution into the oil mixture, stirring constantly. If you are using an electric mixer, be sure to do so on a very slow speed so you minimize any splashing. Be sure your work area is covered and protected. As you pour and stir, you will see the mixture begin to lighten in color and become opaque as the ingredients are incorporated. This is the beginning of the saponification process. When the mixture has reached the proper consistency ~ that is, when it has reached trace stage ~ you can add essential oils, super-enriching oils, herbs or other additives. A trace has been achieved when, as you drop a spoonful of your soap mixture across the surface, it leaves a readily apparent line before disappearing back into the soap mixture. The time needed to reach trace stage may vary depending on the oils used, the temperature in the room and other unidentifiable variables. It usually takes from 15 minutes to an hour to obtain a good trace. Once trace is achieved, add the coffee and essential oil that you set aside at the beginning of the soapmaking process. Stir well to combine.

    6. Set your spoon or mixing apparatus aside and pour your soap mixture into the prepared mold(s). Scrape the soap from the pot using the spatula. Cover the mold completely with a lid of some sort (cardboard or other heavy paper will do), and completely cover the top and sides of your mold with your towel to insulate your soap. A sudden drop in temperature at this time could inhibit saponification so you will want to make sure to cover the mold completely. Leave the soap along for at least 48 hours, and try not to peak to allow the temperature to drop slowly.

    7. Clean the soap pot and all utensils immediately before the soap hardens. Clean up all items that came into contact with lye solution and raw soap by washing them well with hot water and detergent. This includes counter tops, utensils and the floor. Set aside your utensils and use them for soap making only. Take up the newspaper carefully, ensuring that all spills are disposed of. After at least 48 hours, remove the coverings from the soap mold. You should now have a beautiful block of soap, firm and fresh. Allow it to sit uncovered for another day or so before removing it from the mold If your mold is a plastic-lined box, remove the soap by lifting the plastic from the box, and gently peel the plastic away from the soap. If your mold is a plastic container of some sort, you may have to place it in the freezer for a period of time in order to loosen the soap from the sides of the mold. The freezing process will cause the soap to pull away a bit from the sides of the mold. It can then easily be removed. The freezing process does not hurt the soap, but you should avoid leaving your soap in the freezer for a long time. Thirty minutes at the most should be sufficient. If after a few days, your creation has not hardened enough to remove from the mold, leave it alone for another day or so and check it again. If after 3 or 4 days, your soap remains a soft and greasy mass, it has probably separated into two layers. This probably means that the fast and lye solution were too cool to support the saponification process when they were originally mixed together. Allow your soap to cure for 2-3 weeks before using it in order to ensure that all free lye has been fully absorbed by the oils in the soap. After 2 or 3 weeks, wrap your soap in white tissue paper, fabric, wax paper, glassine wrap, or anything you please that you find attractive. You can label it if you like, tie raffia around it gift style, or add beads or bows for a decorative touch.

    Comments:

    "When I started this recipe, I was shocked at how little water was called for to mix with the Lye. I suppose it is because of the large amount of coffee. However, this recipe is easy enough to make, but I will say that it is incredibly thick... almost like re-batch soap. It was as thick as mashed potatoes when "pouring" (plopping) into the mold. But, it hardened up nicely, has a very strong fragrance (peppermint is the only scent I can smell... next time I think I'd mix with less peppermint and add a coffee scent). I would make this recipe again... Judy"
    Submitted by: mysticorient
    "Loved this recipe but note that because of the Pepperming Essential Oil, the batch will trace VERY quickly and VERY thickly. It will still come out fine, but you might want to add the EO just at a very light trace."
    Submitted by: mysticorient
    "How much Lye do you use for this recipe? It is not in the ingredents list."
    Submitted by: cschuldt
    "While this sounds very lovely, I am allergic to coconut. Is there a different oil besides that, that I can use?"
    Submitted by: Ravenmother
    "@mysticorient The recipe calls for 5.2 ounces of sodium hydroxide. That is the formal name for lye. So that's how much to use. Enjoy!"
    Submitted by: admin

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